I went to Paris for a meeting with Jean-Marie Theodat on Monday after a short weekend in the snow with some climbing in Fontainebleau (I’ll post some pictures later.). Jean-Marie is a professor in geography and came to France 30 years ago from Haiti. He is one of the few who actually did profund research on Haiti. The main task for our meeting was a conference about Haiti and some bigger projects that will start in the summer. He is going back to Haiti soon in order to do research about the biggest needs and ways to build a sustainable future for the country. One part of this will be a documentary project we started working on these days, what might also bring me to Haiti in the summer for some time. On the long run helping to build a working education system for the country might become his biggest and most important project.

Before i left to get back to Germany in order to pack my stuff for going back to Copenhagen on Saturday, we found some time to sit down and Jean-Marie gave me a short interview about Haiti’s history, geographical influences, Port au Prince, problems and possible ways to build a sustainable future. I think it is really important for all future concepts that intend to help Haiti for a sustainable future to get as much understanding for the country as possible with it’s history, culture, social and geographical structure. So Jean-Marie Theodat might be a good start to listen to someone who knows about all that. Here is the Interview:

Part I: Introduction…..Part II: History…..Part III: Port-au-Prince…..Part IV: The Problem of Brain Drain…..Part V: The Earthquake…..Part VI: A Path for the Future

(click on the links to get to the films)

Nationalität/ Nationality: Polish

Alter/Age: 24

Sponsoren/Sponsors: GATOWALLS, BOREAL

Beste Ergebnisse/Best Results/Achievements:

1. 8b’s RP “Zona 0” in Siurana and “Mrtvaski ples” in Osp

2. Polish Champion in Lead 2007 and Polish Champion in Bouldering 2009

3. 24th in European Boulder Championship in Birmingham 2007 and 24th in Climbing Worldcup in Lead in Puurs 2006

Interview

What do you expect of BRONX ROCK Invitational?

Many interesting boulder problems, a new experience, and a lot of fun climbing with Daniel and some new interesting people that I will meet. By the way – in polish we call “bronx” a good beer so…

Do you have special plans for the screwing?

Hmmm… Special? Not yet but looking at where the BRONX ROCK Invitational will take place this year, I wouldn’t like to “screw” a lot… I would like to find the possibility to climb these bouldering cubes with as few extra climbing holds as possible.

Describe the perfect boulderproblem.

The one that only I can climb No, I’m joking – frankly speaking, I’m not a very competitive person. So perfect boulder… Hard to imagine only one. Generally, in my opinion, a really good boulder cannot be long and each of his moves should be very difficult. But the boulders that I enjoy the most are these ones which are hard to resolve or which require dynamics, coordination or flexibility. And I love climbing on all formations, or volumes (as for climbing on artificial wall). The funny thing is that I’m not very good at it all

Where do you see possibilities for the development of climbing?

If we are talking about the development of the popularity of climbing as a sport: in placing a climbing hero in the most-watched TV series We had once in Poland last year or 2 years ago and since then all polish climbing gyms are FULL and the general interest in climbing has increased a lot a lot.

What part of your sport would you like to change?

Only the fact that sometimes you cannot climb when you really want to and need to, when for example the weather in rocks is not good or when your skin is gone (I hate it) or when you get contusions (that’s the worst!). Apart of this, my love for climbing is unconditional

What does climbing mean to you?

Oh… so much!!! I can say that it’s my life. Apart from my family and my friends, that is the most important thing for me. On the one hand climbing is something very personal to me, and the on the other hand it’s something that I want and like to share with the others. Climbing move, nature, and very rich relationships… – that’s my “climbing”

Yours strengths and weaknesses in climbing?

Strengths:

inexhaustible motivation, crimps, quite good stamina

Schwächen/ Weaknesses: slopers, orientation in roofs , coordination, climbing on formations and sometimes just “thinking”

I believe in

Oh… again “so much”!!! Maybe I’m too naïve… or just optimistic. But most of all: in family, climbing all your live and power of music.

What inspires you?

Human relationships, human passions, children’s openness to the world and instrumental music

Any advice for anything?

To always try to find something positive out of every experience. And to travel and climb a lot a lot everywhere, especially outside!

Top 3

Heroes

I don’t really have any special one (or 3 ), but talking about the climbers whose climbing impresses me, I have to mention about Favresse brothers, Adam Pustelnik and Lynn Hill.

Music

Only 3? Seems impossible but maybe…

1. piano of Keith Jarrett

2. guitar of Andy Mckee and Paco de Lucia

3. RDJ2, Beastie Boys, The Knife, oh.. many many…

Ah! And obviously – DJ Jung!!!

What are you doing beside climbing?

A lot! Again: hard to choose only 3 things

1. learning French, Spanish and Catalan

2. biking, skiing, snowboarding, ski-touring

3. listening a lot of music and eating a lot!

Climbing territories

1. Siurana

2. Ceuse

3. Osp

Sponsoren/Sponsors: Ocun, Rock Pillars, Mountain Hardware

What do you expect of BRONX ROCK Invitational?
Try out this new competition format that looks very fun for the climbers.

Do you have special plans for the screwing?
No idea before seeing the structure and the holds, all the inspiration comes when you see them.

Describe the perfect boulderproblem.
Must require strength, technique and espacially a lot of coordination.

Where do you see possibilities for the development of climbing?
In videos definitly. These last years some very good climbing movies have been made and a larger public can appreciate thoses videos. It would be a good way to medialise climbing.

What part of your sport would you like to change?
The fact it’s very hard to make a living out of it.

What does climbing mean to you?
It’s a whole lifestyle.

Yours strengths and weaknesses in climbing?

Strengths:
Endurance, power

Weaknesses:
crimping strength

I believe in
…

What inspires you?
…

Any advice for anything?
Always stay attached to your goals.

Top 3
Achievements
1. mentioned above

Heroes
1. Dani Andrada

Music
1. Soulwax
2. Thievry corporation
3. trentemoller

What are you doing beside climbing?
1. Studying mathematics
2. A bit of webediting and video editing

Climbing territories
1. Freyr
2. Gorges du Loup
3. Santa Linya

Nationality: german
Age: 23
Sponsors: monkee clothing

Best Results/Achievements:
1. 10x 8A&harder
2. 1. Dt. Hochschulmeisterschaft 2009
3. ??

Interview

What do you expect of BRONX ROCK Invitational?
hope to have lots of fun and to see other strong climbers, which is always very motivating

Do you have special plans for the screwing?
I expect to get a small crisis while setting my problem as I never did this before;)

Describe the perfect boulderproblem.
nice place, nice holds, nice mouvements, nice line, something which has a history

What does climbing mean to you?
energy, motivation, always small & bigger goals, so many nice experiences in nature, so many nice people, so many place to see

Yours strengths and weaknesses in climbing?

depends on who you compare me with…
Strengths: fingerpower, heelhooks, body-positions, bodytension is getting better
Weaknesses: jumps, plastic-slopers

I believe in
the good in everything!

What inspires you?
people who are motivated and believe in the things they do (not just in climbing)
people who climb forever and still find joy & motivation in this
people who always have fun climbing
people who try hard!!

Top 3
Achievements
1. 8A+ Kalte Sophie, Frankenjura: all by myself in a dark wet cave, still fun:)
2. 8A Beaux Quartiers, Fontainebleau: very beautiful, so psyched that I can climb that hard in font!
3. 8A Schicht im Schacht, Frankenjura: big 2008 project, one of the best in the fj, had always fun there

What are you doing beside climbing?
1. Uni
2. Uni
3. Uni
the last semester was crazy!
but now I have my B. Sc. in Biochemistry and will go on a 6 months roadtrip through the USA:)

Climbing territories
1. the dark forest of the frankenjura as my homespot
2. all the small valleys in the alps
3. fontainebleau as THE mekka, where every problem has a history

nationality: british

age:20

Sponsors: Berghaus, evolv, metolius and The climbing Works

Achivements: Bens Roof at Raven Tor 7c+ and 2nd and CWIF (climbing works international festivle)

Expect of bronx: To be honest i have no idea! i watched the video of last year and looks awsome. Im just excited to be able to set my own problem!

Plans: Not really. I dont think i can really plan what im going to do as i dont know what im gonna get. Im just going to make it up as i go along. Probably put a dyno in there somewhere

Perfect bouldering problem: Overhanging, with toehooks and heelhooks. really gymnastic.

Meaning: Climbing means everyhting to me, its my life!!

Strengths: route reading (most of the time) and jumping

Weaknesses: stamina!!

Inspires: watching other women bouldering really hard. makes me want to do the same, though im a long way off yet!

Acheivments: Bens roof 7c+
2nd at CWIF
2nd british bouldering championships (though the next one is in 2days so wish me luck!!)

heroes: Lisa Rands
Barbara Zangerl
Liz sansoz

Music: completely random!! couldnt give you 3!

Apart form climbing:
tennis
kitting out our van ready for a years road trip to europe
working at a climbing wall

Territories: (places i like to climb)
The peak District
Anywhere in spain!!
Cresciano/chronico
Kalymnos

Age: 28
Nationality: german

Sponsoren/Sponsors: Black Diamond, Climb on!, Marmot, Scarpa, Sterling Rope

Interview

What do you expect of BRONX ROCK Invitational?
A relaxed event with nice people and creative boulder problems

Do you have special plans for the screwing?
Hope the wall will inspire me!

Describe the perfect boulderproblem.
Smooth sand stone with lots of 2-finger-slopers and weird technical moves

Where do you see possibilities for the development of climbing?
If route climbers would boulder more and boulderers would climb more routes, the climbing level could rise a lot

What part of your sport would you like to change?
Just feels perfect as it is

What does climbing mean to you?
It is my way of living…

Yours strengths and weaknesses in climbing?

Strengths:
Motivation…

Weaknesses:
…which sometimes can turn into impatience

I believe in
Good friends

What inspires you?
People who live the life they wish

Any advice for anything?
Do what you feel

Top 3
Achievements
1. Ronin (8b+/8c)
2. King of the Bongo (8b+/8c)
3. Boulders up to 8a+ (trav.) and 8a (bloc)

Heroes
Nobody in particular

Music
1. Morcheeba
2. e.s.t.
3. The National

What are you doing beside climbing?
1. working as researcher and lecturer in political science at the University of Munich
2. meeting friends
3. skiing

Climbing territories
Frankenjura, Catalunya, Verdon, many of the smaller crags around Munich…

Age: 21
Nationality: Niederlande
Worldranking: 31. Platz

Sponsors: Boreal, Mammut, Mountain Network

Interview

What do you expect of BRONX ROCK Invitational?
A really great and fun competition! With a lot of nice climbers and problems.

Do you have special plans for the screwing?
Not yet, it comes to my mind when I see the holds and the wall (at least I hope so )

Describe the perfect boulderproblem.
A very beautiful boulder in a nice place.

What does climbing mean to you?
a lot.

Yours strengths and weaknesses in climbing?

Strengths: dynamic
Weaknesses: really small crimps

Top 3

Heroes
1. no specific heroes

What are you doing beside climbing?
1. studying
2. having fun with friends

Climbing territories
1. Bleau
2. several areas in south of France

This is an unfiltered look inside of the life of Benta Aurino, living in the Bangladesh slum near Mombasa, Kenya, fighting a life with HIV/Aids. It is a long piece of an interview, which will be featured in an upcoming film about the Baobab Family, an NGO, mainly supporting street kids, who became orphans because of HIV/ Aids, but also having a couple of programs to create awareness for it and support the already infected people with food nutrition, medication and an open ear for their problems, as well as giving them the chance to start living again by giving them a new task in the production project.

These days with the people in the slum were heartbreaking sometimes, to see how they have to live and how they suffer under badest conditions, but also very inspiring, when you see the positive attitude they have to life and the sheer endless power to fight their life on and on again, even when things don’t work out. And also their hospitality and open friendliness. I was moved by that, especially when i was coming back to my bungalow at the beach, just a few kilometers away, but in a totally different world. Two worlds existing beside each other, but having no contact with each other.

The Baobab film will be online in the next days, so stay tuned for more.